Sunday, December 11, 2011

Habanero Hell

Believe everything you hear about the dangers of habanero peppers, and take every precaution known in handling them. Last night I bought 8 orange habaneros for 45 cents ($3.99/lb at the bodega versus $7.99 at a chain grocery store), brought them home, washed, cleaned, deseeded and deveined them. I stored the deseeded peppers in the fridge, placed the seeds in a glass tumbler to dry, and scrubbed my hands with soap and warm water.


Then habanero hell started, and it lasted for hours. It felt like a chemical peel was applied to my face and hands. What makes peppers hot is a compound named capsaisin (cop-SIGH-ih-sihn), found in greatest concentration in the veins and seeds. Always use heavy rubber gloves, or disposable gloves. If you cut onto a wooden board, scrub it with dish soap afterwards. Capsaisin is quickly abosorbed into the skin, and lingers even after washing. I had to go outside twice for fresh air. I sneezed at least 20 times. I coughed and coughed. Finally I took a shower, washed my hair, my face with facial cleanser, scrubbed my hands with foot scrub lotion (yes, little pieces of pumice) and feel grateful nothing got into my eyes. My cuticles burned all night! 


If this doesn't convince you, I can eat a container of pickled jalapenos at a sitting and not suffer. Raw jalapenos? Not a problem, just don't touch them to your lips. But these habaneros? Almost one hundred times hotter. I will never clean habaneros again without gloves. Habanero hell is hours of misery, the highly concentrated capsaisin lingered for hours - as in all night long.


Did I mention that I soaked a paper towel with milk and applied it to my hands? Dairy products contain caisen, which neutralizes the capsaisin. I've also heard of rubbing alcohol being applied to the skin, then milk. Sugar rubbed on the spot may help (I've never tried this one). Another remedy is to wash the skin with warm, soapy water and apply olive oil (or a vegetable oil). Rub the oil into the skin, wait a minute or two, rinse. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! Open a window, wear safety glasses, wear gloves, operate on the chilis inside a plastic bag (less spray). Discard gloves after wearing (turned inside out to protect landfill archaeologists).


Now that I'm 90% past the habanero hell episode, 18 hours later, I want to try jerk sauce. 


3 T ground allspice
1/2 t ground nutmeg
1 t ground cinnamon
1 T ground coriander
4 green onions, chopped
1 t tamarind concentrate
1/4 c wine vinegar
1/4 c oil
3 or 4 habanero peppers, cleaned and trimmed using rubber gloves
salt and pepper to season


Blend to a smooth, ash-colored puree. If too dry, add some rum, water or lime juice. Using a spoon, spread over the surface (chicken, pork, tofu, etc), keep in fridge at least 4 hours. Cook as slowly as possible on a covered grill, or in a slow oven in a pan with a rack .